I have always loved trees. Growing up in the mountain forests of northern Thailand, I spent hours climbing them, inventing stories about their secret lives, and eating their tropical fruit. After moving to the U.S. at age 9, I fell for northern Indiana’s big shade trees, winter evergreens and brilliant fall color, though not the endless raking (thank goodness for “leave the leaves”).
In 2020, I spent quarantine at my parents’ home in northeastern Indiana, where my father, a Purdue-trained Master Gardener, has grown 55 trees on one acre since 2004. That ever-changing garden inspired countless photos and an Instagram community of like-minded gardeners.
After completing my own Master Gardener training in Whitley County, I’m now sharing what I’ve learned with anyone ready to grow their own woodland landscape, on large or small properties, in town or country—that is to say, YOU!
What follows is a list of trees that I love and highly recommend for yards of all sizes and the steps you can take to start planting your own trees—or maintaining the trees you already have. Scroll all the way down for a list of practical resources you can refer to on your woodland journey.
Have a small yard? Look for the arrows ➡️ for helpful hints.
Large trees create microenvironments that support our pollinators. Their trunk and bark give shelter to bats, birds and squirrels. Their shade offers refuge from heat and their roots hold soil against erosion.
Home benefits include:
Summer cooling: can cut nearby buildings' energy use by about 10%
Winter wind protection: lower heating costs - plant evergreens on the west and northwest sides of the house
Air and noise: trees filter dust and pollutants and soften traffic noise
Property value & your own well-being: mature trees can raise a home's value by up to 10%, and time around trees is linked to lower stress
Native trees are even better—they support far more insects, are adapted to our local soil and climate, and are much easier to maintain! Indiana DNR counts 58 native species of trees over 45 feet tall.
This is a list of my favorite natives and non-natives. These trees are a minimum of 40 feet high and spread out up to 100 feet wide. They stand on their own as giant specimens or you can do as my family has done: create your own little woodland in your own backyard.
English Beech
English Beech
Norway Spruce
Eastern Hemlock
American Larch (Tamarack)
Bald Cypress
Dawn Redwood
English Beech
Ginkgo (male varieties)
Gum: Black (Tupelo)
Kentucky Coffeetree
Littleleaf Linden
Red Maple
Oak: Swamp White and Northern Red
Quaking Aspen
Sycamore
Tulip (Indiana state tree)
➡️ If you live in a small yard, there are columnar varieties of many large native species. I recommend the Skinny Genes oak that grows around 45 feet high and only 10 feet wide or the Slender Silhouette Sweetgum with a that matures up to 60+ feet high with a narrow 5-8 feet spread.
Mature White and Red Oaks with redbuds and dogwoods below.
View of trees from below a pin oak—from left: River Birch, Weeping Willow and three Bald Cypress trees in the foreground.
Young, future giant trees including red and white oaks, sugar maple, Norway spruce, European Beech, Dawn Redwood, American Larch, and Tulip tree
Young Blackgum tree in October
You'll find there are varying height specifications for a "medium" tree. For this post, I've chosen 20-40 foot trees with a mature spread of 15-35 feet.
Many of these are understory trees that thrive next to large trees in part-shade (in their natural habitat, you'll find these on the edge of the woods.). They fill in the gaps between large shade trees and your shrubs and perennials. They provide many of the same benefits as large trees: beautiful canopies, supporting insects and wildlife, and offering (dappled) shade and wind protection.
These trees are often specimen or ornamental (trees grown for aesthetics) with beautiful flowers, brilliant fall color, fruit that lasts into winter, and textured bark. The shade these trees cast is lighter, more dappled, allowing for your lawn turf and perennials to get the sun they need. Several of these will also do well in wet soil, perfect for low spots or rain-garden edges.
River Birch
Dogwood: Cornus Florida (Flowering) and Kousa
Eastern Redbud
Magnolia Jane
Flamingo Boxelder Maple
Sassafras
Serviceberry
Sourwood
Yellowwood
American Hornbeam
Black Locust
Black Willow
Green Hawthorn
Ironwood (hophornbeam)
Ohio Buckeye
Pagoda Dogwood
Virginia Pine
➡️ There are an endless variety of columnar trees that reach 40 feet. The best way to find something you love is to determine the features you are looking for in a tree (see the list below). In small town yards, I'd recommend finding at least 2 medium trees to bring height and structure — and make one of them an evergreen. This Alaskan Cedar is extremely narrow with weeping, irregular branches and blue-gray color.
Serviceberry 'Princess Diana'
Flowering Dogwood
Redbud 'Forest Pansy'
Magnolia Jane
There are really 3 categories to the small and smallest trees: conifers, Japanese maples, and the others.
In the other category, I favor those that are weeping varieties of larger species and those with knock out flowers like the white clusters of delicate fringe on the fringe tree and the small, but prolific and very fragrant flowers on the Seven Sons tree that keep the tree buzzing with bees in late August.
Seven Sons Tree
Fringe Tree
Weeping European Larch
Hybrid Crabapples: 'Red Jade' and a weeping variety, Ruby Tears or 'Bailears'
Dwarf Hinoki Cypress 'Nana Lutea'
Black Spruce ‘Aureovariegata’ Black Spruce
Hybrid Pine ‘Wiethorst’
Jack Pine ‘Skjak Flach’
Norway Spruce ‘Perry’s Gold’
Weeping Norway Spruce
Acer palmatum
'Butterfly'
'Viridis'
'Orange Dream'
'Roseo marginatum'
'Ogon sarasa' Golden Calico Cloth
Acer circinatum x palmatum 'Herbstfeuer'
Acer japonicum 'Taki no gawa' Full Moon
Acer shirasawanum 'Bronze Age' Bronze Full Moon
➡️ Your small backyard is the perfect home for these interesting trees. Unlike large properties that may swallow up the details, these small trees can be the focal point of your garden.
Weeping trees: Norway Spruce, European Larch, and Crabapple
Jack Pine 'Skjak Flach'
Japanese Maples
Fringe Tree
Sevon Sons Tree
Crabapple 'Red Jade'
Norway Spruce 'Perry's Gold'
Arborvitae
Shrubs can be than trees — and trees can be smaller than shrubs! The difference is in the form. Shrubs have several stems (instead of one trunk) and the branches are closer to the ground. The confusion often lies in how the plants are trained, trimmed, and grafted. Once again the options for shrubs are extensive and will require that you narrow down the features you want.
Shrubs are at eye level and should be eye catching! While there are many important benefits in their microenvironments like the cover and food they offer wildlife, I opt for the stand out colors, textures and unique structures that make wondering through the yard a feast for my eyes all year long.
American Cranberrybush
Border Forsythia
Bottlebrush Buckeye
Dappled Willow 'Hakuro-nishiki'
Flowering quince 'Scarlet Storm'
Lilac
Oakleaf Hydrangea
Red-twig Dogwood
Smokebush (Smoke Tree)
Summer Wine Ninebark
Sweet shrub
Viburnum plicatum
Wahoo bush
Winterberry
‘Tiger Eyes’ Staghorn Sumac
➡️ Shrub heights will not be an issue for you but you will need to factor in width. Some of these can grow up to 15 to 20 feet wide!
Sweetshrub
Bottlebrush Buckeye
From left: Rose of Sharon, Korean Lilac 'Miss Kim', Summer Wine Ninebark 'Seward'
Viburnum plicatum 'Summer Snowflake'
Hydrangea paniculata 'Pink Diamond'
On right: Red-twig Dogwood
Beautybush 'Maradco'
Japanese quince 'Scarlet Storm'
Ready to add all the features that trees and large shrubs offer?
Planning is the most important step to create sustainable landscapes for you, your community, and future generations of tree huggers. It will save you time, effort, and money—and keep your plants healthy for decades and centuries to come. Bur oak trees in Indiana can live 300 to 400 years!
You'll want to budget the costs of buying trees and hiring expert arborists to help with diseases, pests, and dying trees. If you maintain the trees on your own, you’ll need to learn proper techniques and make time for the work: planning around electric lines, underground utilities and plumbing; trimming branches; watering during droughts; and mulching year after year.
When you're ready to take on this exciting gardening project, consider the four elements of garden design as shared by Whitley County Master Gardener, Kim Jewell, in our What's Growing On blog.
Start with structure—trees and shrubs will be the foundation to build the rest of your landscaping on. The size and shape (including root spread) will determine the soil, light, water, and the spacing needed for your landscaping beds, lawn turf, and the plants you love.
Texture: bold or soft? Color that catches your eye in all four seasons. Balance that determines whether your home landscape is an inviting space that brings YOU joy.
Your trees and shrubs will determine the light and nutrients that your other plants have access to. If you're adding more shade to the garden, will your favorite perennials and annuals have enough sun light? Or is it time to start adding some of the many lush shade plants (like my favorite hostas)?
Check out the Landscape Design chapter from Purdue's Horticulturist program for more detailed steps or check out this awesome tool-kit from the University of Wisconsin to map out your plans.
Structure
Structure built with trees, a large shrub, a trellis and stone steps.
Texture
River Birch bark
Color
Acer palmatum 'Orange Dream' Japanese Maple
Balance
Balance of large and small structure, color, and texture
Evergreens
Pinus x schwerinii 'Wiethorst'
Conifers
From left: Dawn redwood, American larch (tamarack), and in the background are three bald cypress trees.
Natives
Five 50- to 100-year-old white and red oaks anchor this 1-acre property in the suburbs.
Ornamentals
Flowering quince and Japanese Maple 'Viridis'
Fruit
American Cranberrybush
Flowers
Kousa Dogwood
Winter Interest
Mature oaks with understory trees including dogwoods, redbuds and Japanese maples
Fall Interest
Summer Snowflake Viburnum and Weeping Norway Spruce
Once you've determined the design features you want, it's critical to identify what natural resources your trees will have access to: space, nutrients, soil, light and water.
You'll need to determine the structure of, and nutrients in, your soil by conducting a soil test.
Double check the space required for your tree — keep it away from electric lines and your house (avoid branches falling on your roof!).
Make sure it is safe to dig around utilities: reach out to Indiana 811 before digging.
Check how much light and water the spot gets. Some plants can’t take wet feet, because their roots rot in standing water, and some need protection from strong sun to avoid leaf scorch.
Shopping local for your trees is the smart option since transporting trees can be costly and the disturbance can lead to broken branches and damaged leaves. Trees are resilient and may recover. Still, look for a reputable nursery that prunes its young trees properly, gives the roots room, spaces the trees well and waters consistently.
When local nurseries don't offer you the selection you want, there are nurseries that offer many unique varieties online that can be properly shipped to your door. I've had luck with several shrubs and dwarf conifers.
The right tools and methods for planting and maintaining will be important to the health of your tree—and yours (no need to break your back or your mind). There are excellent sources from Purdue on planting and pruning but there are a few important items that seem to be lost on professional landscapers as much as unaware homeowners.
Ensure the roots are not wound tightly when you plant your tree. They should be loose and free to spread out. Most tree roots extend out 2 to 3 times the width of the tree canopy.
The ground layer below trees should be soft landings for caterpillars (moths and butterflies), fireflies, bumblebees, lacewings, and beetles. Replace the lawn turf under the tree canopy with leaf litter, shade-loving native plants, or mulch.
The roots of your tree will benefit from mulch coverage but it should not cover the root flare. Piling mulch against the trunk will choke your tree: it blocks air exchange, rots the bark (which lets disease in), encourages roots to grow into the mulch instead of the soil, and keeps water from reaching the root ball.
Keep an eye out for signs of stress. Catching pests and diseases early allows for simple remedies—like simply watering your tree in a drought—rather than calling for an arborist. Learn what to look for here.
American Larch
Seven Sons Tree
Paniculated hydrangea
Invasive trees spread from yards into Indiana’s woods, roadsides and fields. There they crowd out the native trees, shrubs and wildflowers that our birds, pollinators and other wildlife depend on.
Once established, they are costly and labor-intensive to remove, and every one planted in a home landscape becomes a seed source for neighboring natural areas for decades.
Since April 2020, Indiana has banned selling or distributing 44 invasive plants, including tree of heaven, white mulberry, black alder and Amur cork tree, so choosing native alternatives protects both our landscapes and our legal standing.
Norway maple
callery pear (Bradford pear)
burning bush (Euonymus alatus)
Siberian elm
princess tree
sawtooth oak
European highbush cranberry
tree of heaven
black alder
Amur cork tree
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